ok so we’re about 1200miles down on the rebuilt B-motor with rebalanced internals and right the way through break-in miles I felt like the clutch was slipping. I sorta expected this because on the previous motor it slipped from too much power so didn’t really think much of it. Every now and then it did seem to “catch” properly and would dig in and take off but it seemed to be random. For those times it happened though.. wow.
But then at the end of break-in miles since i had to change the oil anyway I put the upgraded clutch (R15 clutch basket with 6-spring boss + uprated springs) from the old engine and it still wasn’t quite hitting the speeds I was expecting. It would get to about 85mph but not any further and given this engine has the power band back in the correct place and screams from about 8.5k right thru the limiter this was unexpected behaviour.
I had been expecting the map to take a while to adapt to the new engine but really it ought to have done that by now. I had recently done a 2hrs each way run which was all main roads so we were in the 8-10.5k range most of that run which meant the autotune had plenty of time to do its thing and sort the map.
The other week I thought I’d just try it on the 14t front sprocket as a test and weirdly it was still not catching right…so I dug into it a bit more and discovered I’d put the clutch cable in a different position from how i’d had it before to see if i could lighten the pull, and then forgot I’d done that. It’s a 1 finger stunt clutch with 3 cable positions so you can vary the travel/pull-weight and as it turns out in the “lightest” position where I had it (which gives the least clutch movement) it was never fully engaging the clutch….
So then I switched it back to the middle position back to the somewhat heavier pull and holy chickenballs what an instant difference.
Since the “A-motor” has been removed from the bike now, I need to strip the upgraded clutch I built a while back off it, since the newly rebuilt “B-motor” is already slipping on the stock clutch and the upgraded one needs transferring to that engine when I do the “end of break-in miles” oil change.
This has been a massive learning curve for me, particularly the sheer number of operations which have to be completed, as well as having to build at least 2 special tools to get the job done meant (for me anyway) it wasn’t really possible to “see” the whole process from start to finish, which in turn makes me very nervous on a project.
TL;DR: Top speed I’ve managed (so far) on mine with 180cc kit, 160cc injector and longer duration cam, with PCV + Autotune/wideband: 89mph.
So I’ve noticed there’s people searching on this topic so I’ll share what I’ve discovered so far, hopefully it’s of some use.
Top speed on mine when I got it, as 125cc on stock 14t sprocket was 83mph (indicated). That was absolutely throwing-it-down-a-hill-with-the-wind-behind-you, the most I could get out of it. 83 seems to be a fairly common top speed for stock bikes. Some other people have claimed 86 out of a stock bike but I can’t verify that myself and that wasn’t my experience.
I started a thread on the forums a little while ago but meant to mirror it here. I may add in the old posts here if i get time but otherwise this will have to serve as a little photo-catchup. please refer to the forum thread for the full story. I’ll try and update both moving forwards..
Whilst not pictured here the cylinder and head are loosely on now while I set up the timing chain etc. Hopefully in the next few days it should be ready to fit.
going further down the crankshaft-rebuild rabbit-hole and getting on with the crankshaft rebuild for my new motor…
In this video we’re looking at trying to calculate the balance factor for the old 125cc setup vs with the big-bore kit, to see if that maybe explains why it’s run a little differently since going big-bore.
This is me attempting to replace the inner camshaft bearing on a YZF-R125 cylinder head.
I’ve not done this process before and it involves extracting a bearing from a blind hole. I’ve found how it’s meant to be done but this is a test to see how well that goes to see how difficult it is, and to help me decide whether it’s something I want to try doing on my main engine.
The bearing puller I’m using is pretty much the default ebay one, just search on “blind bearing puller”.