Ok well you probably know how I feel about facebook products but if anything’s going to get me to cross that line it’s bikes. And it did..Actually so far I quite like it. Lots of nice picsand seems like lots of similarly bike-obsessed ppl but less noise than fb. Biker twitter has decidedly less outlaws than I was hoping for so perhaps Insta is a better place.
Either way..if you’re on there, of if we’ve seen you whilst out riding, please do follow + say hi 🙂
Let’s see if insta is a better outlet for my photos…
For about a year I’ve been looking for a cheap frame to mount the turbo motor in, kinda because I was hoping it would be easier than making a motor stand..You sometimes see written off frames o ebay for peanuts and I was hoping to get one and perhaps cut out what I needed if it couldn’t be put onthe road anyway. You can get clean frames with paperwork from italy and germany but they’re usually £500+ and that’s a bit much to spend on somethign wich may never even make it to he road…but then at long last I found this one the other day in Germany.
This is just a quick little edit i’ve put together because I know that at least one of my viewers is about to do the same process, so wanted to show a little what to expect (and see for myself!) what wonderful mysteries line beneath the stator cover etc.
This is working on my “B-motor” which is a motor i got as a non-runner, hoping to just put a new cylinder on and get it in the bike, but then whilst removing the seized wrist/gudeon pin the bearing surface on the little-end got scored, which means now I have to pull the crank out, get the crank separated, fit a new con-rod and then re-assemble. So since i have to split the casings and whatnot I might put a forged con-rod and fresh bearings where I can, though in general this motor is a lot less shagged than my current one .
I’m not looking to do a mega-rebuild on this, just get it back to working, stick a 180cc cylinder and a stage 2 cam on (both of which I have already), and then get it into the bike so I can start work in rebuilding my ‘A-motor’, which will be getting The Works (with a view to forced induction)…so this is a bit of a trial run.
With a bit of luck this build should see us comfortably into the 90-95mph sorta territory, given we’re already knocking on 90’s door on the current (very knackered) A-motor.
I’ve not had one of these motors apart to this extent before so please don’t use this as a “how to”-video, it’s likely to be more useful as a “here’s some mistakes to avoid”-video (like losing the woodruff key, as you’ll see), and perhaps might be useful to see what special tools are needed to actually take these beasties apart.
This video follows on from my last one and goes through the process of building a new fuel map from scratch for my 180cc YZF-R125, the way I do it, using the Dynojet Power Commander V (PCV) and Autotune (with a wideband 02 sensor).
We go through all the various components/electronic gizmos and how they interact to get to the end result of a tuned bike.
I hope this makes sense cos I had to make a bunch of diagrams and stuff for it which took forever lol xD
This video is focussed on tuning using a PCV and Autotune which is a setup that seems to be working well for me, and for this sort of moderate tuning.
I know many of you have PCFC/PC3USB etc which is a little different and can’t use autotune, and the next video will be about what your options are in that case. Thanks for your patience and I hope it’s helpful 🙂
IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN FUEL MAPPING:
Please check out this interview I did with DynoJet UK – we covered some really interesting ground – especially if you’re thinking of buying a Power Commander (who make the Power Commanders).
been a while since last post…so this will be a bit all over the place while I catch up. Apologies, please bear with me, there’s a lot to cover and some really exciting stuff to follow. Details on that as soon as I know for sure 🙂
Sooooo… the B-motor investigation didn’t go so well, scored bearing surface on the little end (wrist pin) bearing on the con-rod, which means new con-rod, which means bottom end apart and basically new crank which comes with free con-rod (or separate/re-join crank which will cost about the same as replacement). Ran out of budget on that so that’s been paused for the moment.
There’s been quite a lot gone on here lately.. I’ve not posted for a variety of reasons which I’ll also get into along the way.
I’m trying to work through the backlog now and will have to post it in parts. This is part 1 – which is a little catchup on the autotune box I added to my bike recently, which we’ll build on for the next part/s.
I also realised that my email subscription thing on here is all messed up so till I get that figured out I’ve added a thing so you can login and comment with a wordpress.com account, as well as google and faceballs and whever other type of accounts. I hope that makes it easier to comment and ask questions etc.
Short video running through installing and testing my wideband O2 sensor to try and get the fuelling right on my YZF-R125 with 180cc kit. I was kinda nervous about hacking a big hole in my nice shiny stainless exhaust but I guess that’s part and parcel of getting into the more interesting tuning stuff…
This video is me trying to reassemble the broken motor for my YZF-R125, this time with a 180cc big bore kit. Link for the cylinder I bought (which looked *beautifully* machined): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151763913131
Apart from that I only ended up buying the top cam chain guide and one replacement head bolt (which looked like it was going to round off) and a bunch of oil and filters. I’d bought a new cam chain too but hadn’t realised you have to split the bottom end casing to fit it..and you’re supposed to change the main shaft, cam chain and cam gear as a set, so i guess not this time.
Videos I found helpful for preparing the piston, rings and wrist pin etc: