This is just a quick little edit i’ve put together because I know that at least one of my viewers is about to do the same process, so wanted to show a little what to expect (and see for myself!) what wonderful mysteries line beneath the stator cover etc.
This is working on my “B-motor” which is a motor i got as a non-runner, hoping to just put a new cylinder on and get it in the bike, but then whilst removing the seized wrist/gudeon pin the bearing surface on the little-end got scored, which means now I have to pull the crank out, get the crank separated, fit a new con-rod and then re-assemble. So since i have to split the casings and whatnot I might put a forged con-rod and fresh bearings where I can, though in general this motor is a lot less shagged than my current one .
I’m not looking to do a mega-rebuild on this, just get it back to working, stick a 180cc cylinder and a stage 2 cam on (both of which I have already), and then get it into the bike so I can start work in rebuilding my ‘A-motor’, which will be getting The Works (with a view to forced induction)…so this is a bit of a trial run.
With a bit of luck this build should see us comfortably into the 90-95mph sorta territory, given we’re already knocking on 90’s door on the current (very knackered) A-motor.
I’ve not had one of these motors apart to this extent before so please don’t use this as a “how to”-video, it’s likely to be more useful as a “here’s some mistakes to avoid”-video (like losing the woodruff key, as you’ll see), and perhaps might be useful to see what special tools are needed to actually take these beasties apart.
STUFF YOU MAY NEED:
replacement woodruff key in case you lose it like I did:
set of box wrenches including an 8mm which should fit in the tight hole indicated in the video (though this is only needed to split the casings):
cheapo ebay flywheel puller (requires additional bolts in order to be of any use (see below):
Additional/longer bolts needed to make the cheapo ebay flywheel puller work (get 3 of M8 x100mm ):